Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has always characterized its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to discover these stories and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
